Sand & Surf

I filled a whole sketchbook while in California.... I love looking at my sketches and reflecting on all the wonderful encounters and experiences. I thought I would share a few over the next few blog entries.

One Friday evening I picked up Caroline and Lucia (a student from Germany who was also taking the training courses at Monty Robert's ranch) from class and we headed south on Highway 101 for a beach excursion. The ocean is just a thirty minute drive from Solvang. It was Lucia's first time to see the Pacific Ocean and a nice opportunity for new scenery!

It was surprisingly chilly with a strong wind but the girls were determined to get in the water. They ran right in and jumped into the waves. It was a short swim and after bundling up with every available towel and sweatshirt we had brought we sat and enjoyed a picnic dinner. The sea gulls stayed very close... determined to make their case for a morsel or two.

Afterwards, the girls went beach combing and I stayed to paint the panorama in front of me. Large wispy pink clouds rolled in off the ocean and hovered over downtown Santa Barbara in the distance. Huge flocks of pelicans zoomed overhead and swooped down into the ocean. The surf crept up the sand and began to form a channel in front of me that opened to a tidal pool to the left. Kids were having fun watching the water carve away the sand.

Caroline and Lucia returned from their walk and had fun taking picures jumping in the channel.

I finished the painting and then we packed up to go. But not before Lucia stopped to fill an empty soda bottle with sand to bring home to Germany for her little girl. A souvenir from a lovely evening at Refugio Beach.

Visitors - Old & New

It was my last week in the Santa Ynez Valley in California and I was itching to get out and paint. What a nice surprise to get a call from a local artist Marietta and an invitation to go sketch at one of her favorite spots, "The Mills."
We piled my gear into her car and set off for the town of Solvang to a road on the outside of town behind the Mission Ines. We parked and would hike the rest of the way. The mills are currently being restored and are part of a historic preservation project and accessible only by foot and with permission of the Trust. Marietta had permission to paint on the property and I was so excited to see where we were headed.
We hiked along newly-planted olive groves and headed into a wooded area with a small creek running through it. All I could see was bright sun beyond the darkness of the wooded creek bed. We walked through the shallow part of the creek and up into the sunlit hills.

At the rise of a small embankment the clay tiled rooftops came into view and then the full view of this amazing structure. Two small buildings with uniquely shaped holding wells for water all built by hand with clay and rock. Amazing. Especially when you realize they were built in 1820 by hand. 

Built by the Mission Santa Inés in 1819, this water powered grist mill was constucted to increase agricultural production in the valley. Two stone reservoirs were built in to the natural slope of the hill with these incredible stone retaining walls.

A second mill was designed by an American, John Chapman from the New England area. Chapman was sailing towards Hawaii and captured by the Argentinian pirate Bouchard and then forced to go to the Central Californian coast where Bouchard and his men raided Spanish settlements. Chapman was captured in the Refugio Canyon raid and sentenced to the firing squad. His life was spared and he was sentenced to a lifetime service at the Mission Ines in the Santa Ynez Valley.
It was there that he brought his knowledge of the New England textile industry and worked with the mission workers and indians to build this second mill.
This fulling mill created tightly woven woolen cloth by removing the excess lanolin and forcing the woolen fibers to interlock. It was a mill process that he had seen while growing up in the Boston area. This new technology was a huge advancement to the settlers in this region.

What a unique history -- and a great story. 

What an amazing spot -- sketching and painting these humble structures with an amazing panoramic view of the Santa Ynez mountain range and fields. It was a surreal experience.
Looking out across the fields was an old barn bathed in the evening sun. I worked quickly to capture the light and colors.

I was so grateful to Marietta for showing me her special place in the Santa Ynez Valley. We had a great evening of sharing and sketching... she remarked how good it was to be reminded how lucky she is to live in the valley. Indeed.

You can read more about these historic structures and the preservation work being done by the Santa Barbara Historic Trust at http://www.sbthp.org/mills.htm

http://www.sbthp.org/mills.htm

Meadows & Meandering

"Refuge. A safe place."
That is the Spanish translation for Refugio and also the name of a fairly major road through the Santa Ynez Valley. As Refugio Road leaves the valley and begins it's ascent up the coastal mountains, the road changes from a two lane road to a narrow unmarked paved road to a dirt/gravel road where only four wheel drive vehicles travel.
A local resident encouraged me to go past the signs marked "roadway ends" and continue on to find wonderful painting venues. Wow. Spectacular vistas appear as the roadway winds through vineyards, ranches and open spaces.
Just before the road enters the woods and steep foothills there is a sweeping meadow. The wind is blowing and the tops of the grasses move as soft waves. Red tailed hawks soar above and swoop down into the grasses for their meal. Eagles soar high above, their shadows travel across the land with arching movement. Horses nicker in the distance. It is dusk and feeding time.

As the sun dips lower in the sky the meadow is infused with light and color. The foothills in the distance begin to soften and fall into shadow. It is quiet and serene with only the sounds of the wind and birds... A trailing fenceline moved along the meadow and disappears into the grasses.
"Day's End on Refugio Road"... a fitting name for a special road in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Sunsets & Shadows

It's that golden hour, when the sun is just about to sink behind the hills and the contrast of light and shadow is so dramatic. I love painting in that time slot but time is of the essence so I keep my paintings small and work quickly. I often use the open trunk of my car to block the intense low light from my eyes (a makeshift umbrella!).

This is a little stretch of road leaving Los Olivos and heading up Ballard Canyon Road. By day, it is ordinary. At dusk, extraordinary with the tops of grasses illuminated and the rolling hills and oaks in the distance take on a soft glow. I loved the lyrical movement of the barbed wire fence as it trails through the grasses in its disheveled state.

I painted this one last night. It is a scene I have seen several times heading out of Buellton on Hwy. 246 where the road crests at the top of a big hill. There is a vineyard to the right with a farm road. Every time I have seen this view at dusk there are birds perched on every fence rail and the tops of the vines as if they are watching the sunset. They sit quietly for at least twenty minutes rimmed in light. The light becomes so intense as it slips behind the hills and the shadows are just luscious with color.
Flocks of birds fly by and, after the sun has disappeared behind the horizon, the birds in the vineyard all rise up and join them. It's magical.
These are the aspects I love about plein air. The observation of nature and the wonderful harmonies found within.
I titled this one "Evening Takes Flight," packed up my gear and headed back into the valley, now blanketed in the cool shades of night.

Highways & Byways

Driving back from Santa Barbara through the mountains I spotted the rooftops of old barns off in the distance. I was just entering the Santa Ynez Valley and wasn't very far from the exit to Buellton.  I noticed a sign for Classic Organic Farms and figured I would find my way off Highway 101 and see where it took me. I saw the sign and went from 65 to 30 in a flash... amazing that right off this major highways was this old road that led me right to the barns I had spotted from the distance. I love taking chances and seeing where roads take me!

I pulled up to the roadside stand... it was an old barn with an awning out front protecting mounds of strawberries from the hot sun. Inside there were shelves overflowing with the most amazing produce. Heads of lettuce that were as large as basketballs. Carrots, onions, garlic and stalks of celery with the most abundant display of leaves that were tender and fragrant. Artful arrangements of antiques mingled with fruit and delicate bouquets of herbs for sale. It was really a visual feast.

A friendly border collie turned the corner and came to greet me. I deposited my money into the big oak barrel and put my selections in the car. Returning to paint was top of my list for the next day. I did a couple of sketches in my sketchbook and scoped out the perfect painting spot.

I returned the next day mid morning and set up in the shade of a tree to paint. People stopped to make purchases and it was fun watching them sample and savor their purchases before they had even reached their cars. Behind me were the self-pick strawberry fields where people were filling their baskets with berries galore.

This little farm was surrounded by mountains. I looked it up on Google maps when I got back and It is amazing how it is this little land mass tucked into the mountains.

 

I worked on my painting for few hours... I loved the rich texture of the barn and the variations in colors. You could see remnants of old stains and paints of varied colors - red, brown, mustardy yellow. The clouds were amazing and they were moving quickly coming in off the ocean. I loved the bend in the road and wondered where that would lead to.

To the left was an old covered area for cattle. The owner, Helmut, stopped by to talk and look at my painting and we chatted about the history. It had once been an old dairy farm and the road I was painting alongside was the old Coast Highway, and before that a wagon path. The farm used to make cheese that was carried by horse and wagon down to Gaviota (11 miles away through the mountain pass) and then put on boats to San Francisco. 

Now this farm, an organic vegetable and fruit farm, continues the tradition of working the land and preserving the heritage of this valley. I will go back and do some more painting before I leave... I loved this little spot of green paradise ... just off Highway 101.

To read more about Helmut and his farm Classic Organics check out...
http://www.insidesyv.com/content/classic-organic/

Shadows & Vines

I returned to one of my most favorite painting spots in Los Olivos... I still remember the first time I saw the stunning vista of the Saarloos Vineyards along Ballard Canyon Road. The road winds along the ridge and then takes a dramatic turn and suddenly you are climbing the hill and looking out over this incredible canyon vista with tiers of vines. Truly, it takes your breath away. Everytime.

In fact, it was the first painting spot on my inaugural visit to the Santa Ynez Valley three years ago. I immediately pulled over and set up to paint and an hour into the painting Keith Saarloos pulled up and introduced himself. The painting became part of his collection, and a friendship began. The Saarloos family is so gracious and allows me to roam the vineyards and paint! I love discovering new vistas and scenes to paint among the vines.

When I set out to paint this week's painting, I discovered an opening in the fence line along the road... I ducked under the climbing roses and baby oak tree branches! It was like a secret garden moment! When I looked up there was this wonderful new viewpoint... a long and winding road going deep into the vineyard. Lined with pink roses and olive trees. The long deep shadows crept along the earth reaching towards the vines.

After a small sketch to explore the composition and view... I set about painting and decided to expand the view to the left to reveal the steep slope of the vineyard.

It was an incredible late afternoon into evening painting. A herd of steer came down the hillside behind me and I could hear them snorting and eating ... the grasses and brush crunching under their hooves as they lumbered up and down the slopes. Hawks soared in the sky above me casting large shadows over the vines. The wind picked up as the sun began to make its way deep within the canyon and the colors intensified. The occasional creak and soft moan of a windmill above kept me company.

Larry Saarloos stopped by to say hello. I loved his reaction as he stooped under the opening and came up to see the painting. He zeroed right in on the sweeping path and the play of light and shadow along the road... he loved it. It thrills me when people see in my painting the very thing that inspired me to create the painting. It's the best compliment.

"Shadows & Vines"... another painting for the Saarloos collection. I am honored. Grateful to be able to share their special spot in the Santa Ynez Valley.

Oh, and did I mention they create and craft incredible wines. Artists of a different medium.
http://saarloosandsons.com/SAARLOOSANDSONS/Welcome.html

Back for More

I just had to go back to Los Olivos and paint at Clairmont Farms again. This time, I went out deep into the fields... the owners told me how to find a path that would lead me to a chair set under a big oak. Perfect! I wound my way through the rows, buzzing honey bees zooming in and out. I was of no interest to them as there was lavender all about!

The shady spot under the oak tree was perfect with dappled light filtering through it's sprawling limbs. It was windier today and each gust carried the intoxicating perfume of the lavender. Beyond the fields, I could hear horses nickering and calling to each other. I love that sound!
This is a larger piece.... almost 17" wide by 7" deep. I love the contrast of the grasses at the base of the trees with the expanse of lavender. The trees in the distance just seem to rise up out of the color. I look at this painting and I swear I can smell the lavender!

Fields & Family

Yesterday I ventured back to my new found painting spot deep in a vineyard along Ballard Canyon Road between Solvang and Los Olivos. I had permission from the family to paint anywhere and the roads that wind through the vineyard make it perfect for transporting all my painting gear!
As I came around the bend in the road I saw figures in the fields that I had just painted the day before (the painting of the red barn posted earlier). They were awash in the intense afternoon light pulling weeds and working in the fields. I parked under the oak tree along side their vehicles and set up my easel.
A young boy's head popped up from the back of the truck .... he was curious about why I was there and what was I doing? He had come back from the field to take a break from the sun. I hurried to start painting as they were working their way further back into the rows of garlic.
The first thing you notice about the workers in the fields and vineyards is how covered up they are. It was 90 degrees this day and they were wearing jackets, long sleeve sweatshirts, hats and even their faces were covered up to their eyes with bandannas. I painted their forms and loved how the one figure was bathed in light when he stood up to talk to the others. They were chatting and pulling, laughing and working... there was music being played. They called out to the boy and he hopped off the truck and carried a huge water cooler out to them... it was heavy but he managed, with no complaint, I might add. I quickly added him into the painting. Then he too, set about working alongside them.

Within an hour they stopped and came out of the fields to their truck and began to disrobe from all their layers. I was glad I had the figures and field in... I could finish the rest of the painting even if they left. Suddenly these forms became young teenagers, mom, dad, uncles and cousins. It was a family.
They were shy but I encouraged them in my most pathetic Spanish to come and take a look. One by one they walked up to the easel and smiled. Some would laugh and point with delight that they had found themselves in the painting. But the sweetest reaction was from the boy who was so proud that he was in the painting. He would point it out to each person as they approached the easel... and beam with pride. I told him to tell his family that they looked beautiful working in the sunlight and I wanted to paint that. He smiled and translated... and then told me "I was a very good drawer."
The family starting packing up but David, the boy, hung around and kept looking at himself in the painting. I asked if I could take his picture with the painting and he was so pleased.

This is what I love most about the plein air experience. These people touched me as I watched them toil in the fields... cheerful, happy and content. And David, so willing to help his family and so proud of his part of the work. When he saw the painting he said to me, "Look, I am carrying the water.... see."
An ordinary day of work in the Santa Ynez Valley, And extraordinary day of painting.

Oaks & Vines

The stately oak trees lining the winding roads through Ballard Canyon are so lovely. I set up my easel under one and went about capturing the vineyards and hillsides in the late afternoon. The late-day time slot is my favorite time to paint as the sun begins to go down and the colors intensify. The vines sparkle in the light and the oak trees take on these solid shapes with deep shadows. The low light illuminates the massive trunks of these trees revealing their form and strength. Birds begin to call out to each other from their perches and the gophers scurry about for their last bit of supper.

A Second Look

It was another warm day in the Santa Ynez Valley. I set off down Ballard Canyon Road to find a spot to paint. Driving home the other day, I had seen these structures from the road and they caught my eye.  So I set off to take a second look. The setting was perfect and the contrast of the metal structure with the organic shapes of the landscape were exciting.

I love how they are standing side by side almost as if they are watching over the newly planted vineyard behind them. They have quirky, fun proportions and interesting shapes.
The sun was hot but I was able to find a small patch of shade to paint int. Bicyclists and runners occasionally came by. One passerby remarked how they had often traveled this road and never noticed them being anything special. But on second look, they studied them and my painting and remarked that indeed it was a great scene and they were quite charming set amongst the golden hillsides.
One of my favorite things about painting is capturing a scene that is often overlooked... and allowing people to look at their familiar landscapes in a new and fresh way.
A second look.

Stop & Sketch

This morning I finished a painting and decided to spend the rest of the day doing small watercolor sketches/studies. I grabbed my sketchbook, mini travel palette and camera... packing light!

This was my view this morning as I finished breakfast on the patio... grabbed a quick sketch to capture the light. I love how the morning sun illuminates slopes of the canyon's hillside and the deep caverns are still immersed in shadow. As the sun comes up higher, the darkness is swallowed up with light.

I finished up my painting that I had started earlier the day before. While I was putting the last touches on the painting, some cows moved down to graze under the tree. I pulled out my sketchbook and did several quick studies of them as they were moving about and when the mother and baby cow decided to nap, I worked on a color watercolor sketch.

The next stop was to pull over to do a sketch of the hillsides, but when I got out of the car I looked across the road and saw an open gate leading up to a massive oak tree in a vineyard. The tree offered shade and I decided to go up and check out the view. The spot offered a wonderful vista of vineyards and hills in the background. The hawks were sweeping the skies looking for breakfast. I will definitely go back and paint here this week!

Two more stops and several sketches later, I decided to go further down the road. There was a view I had remembered from our last visit -- just before Ballard Canyon Road ends at the highway. I decided to go back and find it and hoped for a place to pull over... I  was in luck! There was a shady spot with just enough room for my car. The afternoon light was delicious... and I loved this sloping landscape with the cluster of trees casting wonderful shadows and offering peek-a-boo views between the trunks.

I love taking a break from completing "finished" paintings and instead set my focus on capturing simple color studies where I can explore new painting spots, work out compositions and collect pages of ideas in my sketchbook.